The price of eggs has prompted many to consider raising chickens at home, but before starting a flock, would-be poultry owners should understand basic chicken first aid.
Dr. Jonathan Moyle, University of Maryland poultry specialist, encourages new chicken owners to establish a relationship with a veterinarian and to be familiar with the appropriate state veterinary diagnostic laboratory in the case of a flock-wide health issue.
Healthy birds have bright eyes, yellow legs and plumy feathers. “When they’re healthy, they tend to be clean,” said Moyle. “Sick birds are huddled up, dirty, not moving around and their combs are pale.”
Normal chicken manure is formed and white at one end; runny, light-colored manure is a sign of illness.
Other indicators of illness or injury include weakness, droopy wings, twisted head or neck or complete paralysis. Some birds become lame and develop tumors or swelling around the eyes and neck. Some injuries are due to the farm set-up, so arrange housing that keeps birds safe.
Basic first aid supplies for poultry include disposable gloves, disinfectant spray for cleaning wounds, topical antibiotic ointment, styptic powder (to stop bleeding), vitamins and electrolytes, mineral oil, scissors, tweezers, dog nail clippers, super glue, sterile saline solution and hydrogen peroxide.
Those who start with young chicks might see incidences of pasty butt, which has several possible causes, including temperature fluctuations during transit or poor-quality feed. Resist the urge to pull this material off – instead, moisten the affected area and gently remove any stuck material.
In the case of a predator attack, treat birds with TLC and prevent further stress. Clean minor abrasions and apply topical antiseptic. Isolate any injured birds so others don’t peck on them, but make sure patients can see other birds.
Chickens’ beaks can break, split or crack. Super glue them back together and hold until firm. A bird with a cross beak (upper and lower beak parts not aligned properly) cannot eat properly and should be euthanized. Trim beaks and nails with dog nail clippers.
Most external parasite issues can be prevented by keeping wild birds and rodents away from domestic birds. Products that help control external parasites via dusting include insecticides such as Sevin® (carbaryl), pyrethrin or permethrin, diatomaceous earth and elemental sulfur powder. Always read and follow instructions carefully.
Moyle suggests placing a tire filled with dust and sand in the coop, and once birds begin to use it as a dust bath, add insecticide powder.
Some chickens develop crop issues. “The best time to check for crop problem is first thing in the morning,” said Moyle. “A normal crop is empty and hard to find. The crop will feel large during the day but should be pliable and easy to move with fingers. They have bad breath and may be hot.”
To treat an impacted crop, massage and knead gently to break up the crop contents. Repeat several times a day until the crop empties. Remove access to feed until the problem is resolved but provide ample fresh water.
Repeated bouts of impacted crop can result in pendulous crop, which appears enlarged and distended. The crop cannot empty properly and leads to other issues such as sour crop (a yeast infection in the crop with a foul odor).
A prolapsed oviduct (also referred to as a blow-out, cloacal prolapse or peck out) occurs when the oviduct doesn’t retract because the hen is too fat or lays an extra-large egg. This condition invites other hens to peck the exposed tissue, causing additional damage.
Healthy chickens are clean with bright eyes and plumy feathers, with no evidence of mites or other external parasites. Photo courtesy of Woodbury Family Farm
“Make sure nests are dark,” said Moyle. “If the area is brightly lit, the other chickens see the red as it comes out and will peck it. Prolapses usually reoccur, so hens with the problem should be culled. If tissue is injured, an antibiotic may be necessary. Keep an eye on the hen, fix possible causes such as obesity or too much light in the nest and provide a proper diet.”
The egg-bound condition in chickens was widely discussed on social media several years ago, but Moyle rarely sees it now. “Egg-bound means an egg is stuck in the oviduct of the hen,” he said. “It’s a rare event and should be treated as an emergency. It’s often over-reported and often associated with overweight hens.”
Egg-bound hens will appear weak, have an odd walk or become lame. The cloacal area (or vent) will be swollen.
“Gently palpate the abdomen to feel for the egg,” said Moyle. “To help the hen pass an egg, apply a lubricant to the cloaca. Be careful not to break the egg – sharp pieces can cause damage to the oviduct and lead to infection and death.”
Watch birds carefully as the weather becomes warmer. “When it gets hot, birds start to pant, panting takes energy and energy generates heat,” said Moyle. “This is worse in high humidity. Provide access to shade and plenty of clean water. If it’s hot and humid with no wind, use a fan to help cool birds. Keep water cool and change it often.”
Housing with insufficient height to dissipate heat can result in heat stroke. Birds suffering from heat stroke must be cooled. Moyle suggests shade and a fan and frozen water bottles next to overheated birds.
Bumblefoot (foot pad dermatitis) is seen often in laying hens. The condition is an inflammation of cutaneous tissue that can affect the superficial skin down to deep skin layers. It occurs when birds are forced to stand in wet bedding. Prevent it by providing dry bedding and dry conditions in outdoor areas. Roosts also help prevent bumblefoot.
Treatment for bumblefoot is foot soaking in warm water and Epsom salts. Clean the affected area with soap and warm water and disinfect with alcohol. If the skin is open, drain any open or pus-filled areas. Flush the cavity with hydrogen peroxide, pack the cavity with antibiotic ointment and wrap the foot with gauze and elastic bandage to keep it clean.
“Fix the environment that caused it,” said Moyle. “Repeat daily until the foot heals.”
Chickens are prone to cannibalism and will pick at sores on other birds. It usually occurs when new birds are introduced and the pecking order changes. Introduce new birds slowly and watch for conflicts.
Due to the ongoing risk of highly pathogenic avian influenza (HPAI), maintain tight biosecurity. If a neighbor has poultry, don’t visit and don’t allow others who have poultry to visit your poultry area.
“If birds die suddenly, show signs of avian influenza or if multiple birds have similar signs of illness,” said Moyle, “contact the state veterinary office for instructions.”
by Sally Colby
Leave A Comment